After a packed week of paddling adventures,
it’s time for a few days of relaxation. Nic, Shane, Kath, Tod, Jas, Cath and I
head to Kaua'i’s north shore. Apparently this is the rainiest location on the islands,
and it doesn’t disappoint.
We check out the coastline, stopping at Kilauea Lighthouse, and a plain of taro fields.
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| Taro fields in northern Kauai |
Taro is a traditional hawaiian staple food that is making a
come-back. When the potato like tuber is baked, as when we had it
on our post-race plate lunch, it tastes a bit like sweet potato, but more
starchy. It’s also pounded into a liquid, called poi, which Carol told us is a
popular side dish at meals, and is often poured into snaplock bags and used as
a natural Gu in races. I love its range of colours - purple, pink, green & brown - but not quite the taste, yet.
We reach Hanalei Bay, a place which brings
back fond memories of my first surfing lesson with Ron (see this post from2011). Ron and his yoga poses are nowhere to be seen; it’s the calmer summer
season and the bay has been flattened by the rain showers, so there’s not much
to surf here today.
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| Flat Hanalei Bay |
Jas and I run into Scooter on the pier and
ask a little about his sailing canoe; a 4-seat Walter Bradly model that he has
restored over the past few years. It looks tons of fun, and I’d love to head
out on one; but even the rain has put Scooter off today. Maybe next time.
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| Walter Bradly OC4 |
A walk around Hanelei shops, and tasty
lunch at the Dolphin for some superb sushi and poke bowls fills in the time until
we can check-in to our fancy tower condo in Princeville. It’s the ultimate
Hawaiian getaway, and is going to be the perfect place to relax over the next
few days.
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| Time to relax with Kath, Nic, Jas, Cath (Shane & Tod) |
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We wake to the sound of pounding rain,
which encourages a well-needed sleep-in. Despite the frequent showers, we venture west
to check out the Kalalau trail along the Napali coast, which I have been
wanting to hike for years. As Nic forges the rental car through a 20cm deep stream
that gushes over the road, I doubt our chances of hiking today.
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| Rain soaked Ke'e beach |
Sure enough, the trail is closed, so we
explore around Ke'e beach and the surrounding area. The rain makes the
coastline rugged, and leaves the towering mountains up to the imagination, but
brings out the greenery in the rainforest and makes the rope-like vines and
dinner-plate sized leaves glisten.
Back home, we take a local tip and order in
pizza from the Princeville service station and general store. Washed down with
some Big Wave beers it’s a perfect day off.
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Back on the adventure trail! It’s still
dark when we all pile into the car this morning for the drive South to Port
Allen wharf. The sun peaks over the horizon as we drive down the east coast,
and shortly after 7:30am we’re on a catamaran, headed for the Napali Coast.
“Dolphins!” Jas squeals, and the catamaran
lists port as we all crowd to see them. The spinner dolphins glide through the
water beneath us. Apparently they’re still asleep, half their brain is resting.
The Napali Coast stretches before us. A
series of towering, jagged green mountains, separated by deep ravines almost at
sea level. It’s incredibly stunning. The guide tells us about the Native
Hawaiians who lived in some of the coves. They would fish during the calmer
Summer months, and travel by canoe to other locations, but become stranded
during winter, when 80ft swells pound the coastline.
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| Kalalau Bay, Napali Coast |
The wind picks up, and the waves run along
the coastline. Even though it’s our time off, I can’t help but think how
awesome it would be to paddle these waters. The Napali Challenge OC6 race has
been on my wish list for a while; and this has just reconfirmed how much fun it could be!
We stop for a snorkel. It’s great to get
off the rolling boat, and luckily I quickly spot a turtle a few meters below.
There’s nothing that will bring you to the present better than following a
turtle as it meanders through the water, picking up the currents, slowly
beating its fins as it rises to the surface for a quick breath. It’s a timeless
moment.
Too soon, we’re back on board, headed for
the port, back at full speed. The seas are rough – Captain Nicola reads the
dials at 31kts. Needless to say, I’m happy to be back on solid ground.
Jas and I continue our exploration day and
head up to Waimea Canyon for the afternoon. It’s the day of spectacular views;
we look out over the rusty coloured cliffs towards a waterfall on the far side.
A short walk along the Canyon trail brings us to an equally stunning
perspective down the canyon.
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| Stunning colours of Waimea Canyon |
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| Just holding on |
We’re now at the top of the ridge of the
Napali Coast, looking down to the ocean where we were that morning. It’s a
surreal view, and a place I’d like to spend more time in, to bring the views
into reality, but for this trip, our time is unfortunately up, and we’re back
to Oahu tomorrow, then to Maui for the next stage of the trip.
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